Domaine Leroy Clos De Vougeot 1996


It’s almost impossible to put into words the significance of Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy in the world of wine. Burgundy authority Clive Coates MW posits that “the greatest domaines of Burgundy today must be those under the control of Lalou Bize: The Domaine Leroy and her own Domaine d’Auvenay”. Having started out as a négociant for the family’s Maison Leroy in the 1950s, Lalou and investors bought the vineyards and winery of Domaine Charles Noëllat in Vosne-Romanée in 1988 and renamed it Domaine Leroy. “At Domaine Leroy, we have been cultivating our vines under biodynamic conditions since 1989,” says Lalou. “This means that our wines are free of all chemical treatments, weed killers, pesticides, fungicides, insecticides and artificial fertilisers. Instead, we have stepped back in time and use cosmic rhythms to ensure correct soil tilling and recuperation as well as effective vine care through all phases of the year’s cycle.”

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Allen Meadows: A reserved, notably ripe and subtly oaked nose offers up notes of of pungent earth and fresh red pinot fruit that are followed by rich, delineated, full-bodied and beautifully textured flavors that possess outstanding drive and length on the sweet but dusty finish. This is still a moderately structured wine that is not especially refined and one that lacks the same level of complexity as several other of the better Leroy ’96s. While this could certainly be held for many more years it’s not clear that there is much, if any, upside development potential remaining. Note that I have tried this several times recently with mostly consistent notes.

Varietal: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 1996
Region: Burgundy
Wine type: Red
Winery: Domaine Leroy